- Store your unit under a covered area if possible that will support the amount of snow you get in your area. If not, avoid parking under trees or in areas where grass and weeds will grow. If you cover your RV, be sure the material is made of a breathable material. This will help in preventing mold and mildew.
- Drain the fresh water tank(s) and both gray and black waste tanks. Leave gray water valve OPEN.
- Drain all your water lines using the manufacturer provided drain lines (look at your manual). One method is given here:
- Screw compressed air adaptor into the fresh water inlet. The adapter is available from Camping World or most RV dealers.
- Apply compressed air, keeping the pressure less than 20 lbs/sq inch.
- Remove the drain plug from the hot water tank and allow the compressed air to blow out the remaining water. Reinstall drain plug.
- Open each faucet, one valve at a time, allowing the compressed air to force the water out of the line. Don't forget the shower and toilet.
- Remove the drain plug from the hot water tank and allow the compressed air to blow out the remaining water. Reinstall drain plug.
- Remove the compressed air source and adapter.
- Close the water heater by-pass valve(s). NOTE:
This by-pass valve(s) consists of one or two valves that isolates the tank from the rest of the water system. A water heater tank is normally about 7 to 10 gallons. Without the by-pass valve, you will have to fill that tank with seven to ten gallons of RV antifreeze before you can pump it throughout the rest of the system. With a by-pass valve, you can save 7 to 10 gallons of RV antifreeze.
Installation is a pretty simple do it yourself project, or any O'B can install it for you. You will save the cost of the valve in just a few years with the value of the antifreeze you save.
- Remove the hose from the fresh water tank to the Water Pump and direct it into a gallon jug of RV anti-freeze (this is a special formulation for RV fresh water systems. Never use automobile anti-freeze for this purpose). Run the water pump until it builds up pressure in the system and stops. Then go to each faucet and run it until the pink anti-freeze solution starts to come out then shut each faucet off. Do this to the shower heads and toliet. Reattach the water line from the fresh water tank to the water pump. (You can install a three way valve that eliminates the need to disconnect the water line. O'B can install this for you if you like.) You may need several gallons of RV Anti-freeze depending on the size and length of your water pipes, so be prepared.
- Close and disconnect the gray water valve now.
- Put a few cups of RV Anti-freeze solution into all drain traps (kitchen sinks, bathroom sinks, etc.)
- Make sure all water hoses are drained fully and properly stowed (fresh water and waste water hoses)
- Clean and defrost your refrigerator(s) and store food elsewhere. Leave frig door slightly open. Put a box of baking soda in the frig to absorb odors. Turn to OFF.
- Remove any liquids that might freeze and break the containers that might be in your cabinets or under your sinks or in your storage compartments underneath the RV.
- Remove all consumables that would attract mice and other rodents
- Make sure your Propane master valve is OFF.
- Close all windows and vents.
- Inflate the tires to the manufacturer's recommended maximum cold pressure. Cover the tires to protect them from harmful ultraviolet rays. Make sure your RV is as level as possible to prevent overloading one or more tires due to uneven weight transfer. If your RV or trailer does not have built-in leveling devices, use blocks for leveling. Place something heavy such as a sturdy wooden board under each tire so it is not in direct contact with the ground. Make sure the tires are fully supported when using blocks. The load on the tire must be evenly distributed on the block and, in the case of duals, evenly distributed on blocks for both tires. This will prevent premature sidewall fatigue and ultimate tire failure. Better yet place blocks or jack stands under the axles so that tires carry no load while in storage. If you remove the tires, make sure they are in a cool, dry and well circulated room. Don't stack them on top of each other or the bottom tire will be deformed. If you do not remove the tires for long-term storage periodically move the vehicle to prevent flat spots. Make sure you check all tires at the end of the storage period and fill with the proper air pressure.
- Close all of the window blinds to avoid sun exposure to the carpet, drapes and upholstery.
- Wash the exterior of the unit and clean the interior thoroughly.
- Make sure the awning fabric is clean and dry before storing to avoid mildew damage.
- This would be a good time to check your roof and windows for leaks and seal them if you find some.
- Lubricate the key locks with a good grafite lubricant and use WD-40 on hinges.
- Insects are attracted to the odorant that is added to propane gas. To prevent mud daubers and wasps from building nests in and around your gas appliances, cover the refrigerator vent, the furnace vent and the water heater vent.
- Clean the air conditioner filters, and cover the roof top air conditioner(s)
- Turn off the main breaker and unplug all appliances.
- If you have roof vent covers, leave the vents open to ventilate the RV.
- Remove batteries in clocks, flashlights, cameras, phones and other electronics left in the RV to prevent acid damage.
- Check with the manufacturer about removing chassis batteries and other things you might do to prepare the chassis and engine for storage. It's best to store your engine with fresh oil to avoid damage from acids in old oils.